There’s something magical about a sweater that feels like a breeze on your skin—and that’s exactly what Zephyros was designed to be. This free summer sweater knitting pattern brings together airy texture, thoughtful construction, and just enough detail to keep things interesting without ever feeling heavy or fussy.
Whether you’re looking for a relaxed knit tee for warm afternoons or a lightweight long-sleeve layer for cool evenings, Zephyros gives you both. With two sleeve options and a beautifully textured fabric, it’s the kind of piece you’ll reach for again and again—on its own in summer or layered into early fall.
Note: The yarn for this pattern was provided for me at no charge by the yarn company. Yarn support allows designers, like me, to continue to provide you with gorgeous patterns while we grow!
Why You’ll Love This Free Summer Sweater Knitting Pattern
If you’ve ever wanted a free summer sweater knitting pattern that balanced simplicity with a unique twist, Zephyros might be exactly what you’ve been waiting for.
At its core, this design is easygoing and approachable. But the magic lies in the fabric. The sweater features a “distorted rib” pattern—a fresh take on classic 1×1 ribbing that creates movement and depth without overwhelming the eye.
Every sixth row (or round), the rhythm shifts slightly with knit one below (k1b) and purl one below (p1b) stitches. These subtle interruptions create a gentle ripple effect, giving the finished piece a soft, organic texture that feels almost wind-swept.
The result? A fabric that’s stretchy, breathable, and visually engaging—perfect for a knit summer top pattern free of bulk but full of personality.
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Two Sleeve Options, Endless Possibilities
One of the most exciting features of this free summer sweater knitting pattern is its versatility.
Short Sleeve Option: The Everyday Knit Tee
The short sleeve version transforms Zephyros into a modern knit tee—light, breathable, and endlessly wearable. It pairs beautifully with jeans, linen pants, or skirts, making it a staple piece for warm-weather wardrobes.
If you’ve been searching for a free knit tee pattern that feels polished but still relaxed, this option hits that sweet spot.
Long Sleeve Option: Soft Drama with Puffed Sleeves
For a slightly more elevated look, the long sleeve version introduces gentle puffed sleeves. They add just enough volume to feel special, without tipping into overly dramatic territory.
This option makes Zephyros a transitional piece—perfect for layering over a tank on cooler summer nights or wearing into early fall. It’s proof that a free summer sweater knitting pattern can still bring a bit of elegance to your handmade wardrobe.
The Fabric: Light, Breezy, and Full of Texture
Zephyros is worked in sport weight yarn, which is key to achieving that airy, effortless feel. The lighter gauge keeps the sweater breathable while still allowing the texture of the distorted rib to shine.
The interplay between standard ribbing and the k1b/p1b stitches creates a fabric that feels alive—softly structured, slightly elastic, and incredibly comfortable to wear.
If you’ve never worked “one below” stitches before, don’t worry—they’re simple to learn and quickly become intuitive (and I have a full photo and video tutorial). And because they’re spaced out every sixth row or round, they add interest without slowing your rhythm too much.
This balance makes Zephyros a great choice whether you’re newer to garment knitting or just looking for a relaxing project with a little something extra.
A Free Summer Sweater Knitting Pattern That Works With Your Style
One of the best things about Zephyros is how adaptable it is. This isn’t a one-look sweater—it’s a canvas for your personal style.
Choose a soft neutral for a timeless, goes-with-everything piece
Go bold with saturated color to highlight the texture
Try a heathered or tonal yarn to add even more depth
Because the design is clean and the texture is consistent, it works beautifully across a wide range of color choices.
And thanks to its lightweight construction, this free summer sweater knitting pattern fits seamlessly into a capsule wardrobe. It’s the kind of piece you can dress up or down without thinking twice.
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Construction Details You’ll Appreciate
Zephyros is designed to be as enjoyable to knit as it is to wear.
The structure is straightforward and intuitive, allowing you to settle into a steady rhythm quickly. The repetitive nature of the distorted rib makes it easy to pick up and put down—perfect for busy days or knitting in short bursts.
At the same time, the periodic k1b and p1b rows keep things engaging, giving you just enough variation to stay interested.
And did I mention the puffed sleeves on the long-sleeve version?
Also, there’s a darling split hem that just gives it that little extra bit of something.
The result is a project that feels meditative without ever becoming monotonous—exactly what many of us are looking for in a knit summer top pattern free of unnecessary complexity.
Who This Free Knit Tee Pattern Is Perfect For
Zephyros is wonderfully versatile in terms of skill level and knitting style.
Beginner-advanced knitters will appreciate the clear structure and the opportunity to learn new stitches
Intermediate knitters will enjoy the relaxing rhythm with a touch of texture
Experienced knitters will love how effortlessly it comes together into a polished finished piece
If you’ve been wanting to branch out from basic stockinette without diving into complicated charts or shaping, this free knit tee pattern offers the perfect middle ground.
When Your Yarn Disappears (And You Have to Pivot)
I’ll be honest—this part of the Zephyros story came with a bit of a plot twist.
The original samples for this (now) free summer sweater knitting pattern were knit in a yarn from The Fibre Company that I absolutely adored. It was one of those rare finds: a brushed suri + silk sport weight that created the dreamiest, floatiest fabric. Light as air, softly haloed, and with that effortless drape that makes a sweater feel like it’s barely there.
And then… it disappeared.
Cue the tiny violin. RIP, beautiful yarn 😢
If you’ve ever fallen in love with a yarn only to have it discontinued, you know exactly the kind of conundrum this creates. As a designer, it’s really important to me that you can recreate what I’ve made—or at least get very close. But this yarn? It was unique in a way that isn’t easy to duplicate.
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Finding a New Direction (and Falling a Little in Love)
So I had a choice: cling to the original and leave you hunting for unicorn yarn… or rework the pattern with something more accessible that still honored the spirit of Zephyros.
Enter Madelinetosh and their absolute gem: Tosh Pashmina.
If you’ve been around here for a bit, you already know I have a thing for MCN (merino/cashmere/nylon). It’s soft, it’s strong, it drapes like a dream—and it has just enough structure to hold texture beautifully.
While it doesn’t have the same airy halo as the original brushed suri + silk, it brings its own kind of magic to this free summer sweater knitting pattern. The fabric is still wonderfully drapey, but with a slightly more grounded, cozy feel. Think: less “barely-there breeze,” more “I never want to take this off soft.”
Listening to Your Yarn: A Few Pattern Tweaks Along the Way
Of course, switching yarns isn’t always a plug-and-play situation.
Even though I was able to match stitch gauge, row gauge told a slightly different story (as it so often does). Rather than force the fabric into something it didn’t want to be, I leaned into it.
Some of the repeats—originally worked every 6th row—I had to adjust to every 4th row. This kept the proportions of the design feeling balanced and intentional, while also giving the knitting a slightly different rhythm.
And honestly? I love how it turned out.
Now, I did not update the pattern of Zephyros with these personal changes because plenty of testers were able to meet the original gauge in a variety of different yarns. But I’m just letting you know that it’s always important to listen to your yarn and tweak as needed to end with the best possible fabric.
The my new sample of Zephyros was just as engaging to knit, with that same beautiful texture from the distorted rib—but now with a fabric that’s incredibly soft, a touch more substantial, and still perfectly suited for a knit summer top pattern free of heaviness.
Same Spirit, New Feel
So is it identical to the original? No.
But it is something I reach for constantly.
The MCN version has become my go-to for those in-between moments—warm days, cool interiors, breezy evenings. It’s the kind of sweater you toss on without thinking and then realize hours later you’re still wearing because it’s just that comfortable.
And at the end of the day, that’s what I want this free knit tee pattern (and sweater!) to be for you: something you live in, not just something you knit.
If you happen to have a unicorn skein of that original suri + silk tucked away, by all means—use it. But if not, I can confidently say this updated version captures the heart of Zephyros in a way that’s accessible, wearable, and just a little bit addictive.
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If You Want A PDF…
The pattern is completely free to read on my blog, but this one is not a free PDF download (though all the ones in the signup boxes are!).
I’m able to offer my patterns free on the blog because of the ads. Those ads help cover the cost of website hosting, email services, and of course yarn. I really make pennies on the hour doing this, but I truly love it!
Creating patterns that are fun, relaxing, and accessible for everyone brings me so much joy 😊
But I know ads aren’t everyone’s favorite thing, and I totally get it. But please don’t copy & paste this pattern to a document.
So I also offer an ad-free PDF version for purchase that’s beautifully formatted and easy to print. And it’s available at a reduced price on Ravelry & Etsy if you want a cleaner, downloadable copy.
Please, please! Do not copy and paste this pattern to an outside document. It may not feel like it, but it is stealing. All I want to do is make just enough to keep creating patterns.
To everyone who has bought a pattern or spent time on my site, THANK YOU!
The Fibre Co. Cirro (40% Alpaca, 40% Cotton, 20% Wool) 246 yds/225 m, 50 g – 2 (2, 3, 3, 3) [4, 4, 4, 4] skeins (short sleeve) or 4 (4, 4, 4, 5) [5, 6, 6, 6] skeins (long sleeves) in Uranus
Needles & Notions
US 8/5.0 mm & US 6/4.0 mm – 32-40”/80-100 cm and DPNs or Magic Loop – preferred method of small circumference knitting (or needles needed to obtain gauge + 2 sizes smaller!)
Stitch markers, tapestry needle, stitch holders or waste yarn
Gauge
16 sts & 29 rows/rounds = 4”/10 cm in Distorted Rib, with the larger needle, after blocking
Glossary for the Free Summer Sweater Knitting Pattern
BO – bind off (in pattern unless otherwise specified)
BOR – beginning of round
CO – cast on
CDD – centered double decrease — slip 2 sts (together) knitwise, knit the third st, then pass both slipped sts (together) over the third st.
inc’d – increased
k – knit
k2tog – knit 2 sts together
k3tog – knit 3 sts together
kfbf – 2 sts inc’d – knit into the front of the st without taking it off the needle, knit into the back of the same stitch taking it off the needle, knit into the front of the same st and slide it off the needle.
m – marker
M1L – make one left – Insert the left needle from front to back into the horizontal bar between your last worked stitch and the next stitch to be worked. Knit the back leg of the loop (which twists the bar to the left).
M1R – make one right – Insert the left needle from back to front into the horizontal bar between your last worked stitch and the next stitch to be worked. Knit the front leg of the loop (which twists the bar to the right).
p – purl
p2tog – purl 2 sts together
patt – pattern
pm – place marker
rep – repeat
rm – remove marker
RS – right side or the side that will be seen when wearing
sm – slip marker
ssk – one at a time, slip the next 2 sts knitwise; return the sts to the lefthand needles, and knit them together through the back loops
sssk – one at a time, slip the next 3 sts knitwise; return the sts to the lefthand needles, and knit them together through the back loops
WS – wrong side or the side that will not be seen when wearing
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Special Techniques
k1b – Knit 1 Below
Knit 1 into the stitch below the live stitch on the lefthand needle. Want to see how and where it’s done? Get the full tutorial at https://nurtureknitwear.com/k1b-in-knitting/.
p1b – Purl 1 Below
purl 1 into the stitch below the live stitch on the lefthand needle. Want to see how and where it’s done? Get the full tutorial at https://nurtureknitwear.com/k1b-in-knitting/.
Stitch Patterns
Distorted Rib Pattern (DRP) – Flat
Patt is worked over 6 rows and an odd number of sts – [ ] indicate the repeat. During increases, the DRP section could begin with either a knit or a purl so instructions for both are included.
Knit st first:
Rows 1 & 3 (RS): [K1, p1], k1.
Rows 2 & 4 (WS): [P1, k1], p1.
Row 5: K across.
Row 6: [P1, k1b], p1.
Purl st first:
Rows 1 & 3 (RS): [P1, k1], p1.
Rows 2 & 4 (WS): [K1, p1], k1.
Row 5: K across.
Row 6: K1, p1, [k1b, p1], k1.
Distorted Rib Pattern (DRP) – In the Round
Patt is worked over 6 rows and an odd number of sts – [ ] indicate the repeat. During decreases, the DRP section could begin with either a knit or a purl so instructions for both are included.
Slip all markers when reached unless otherwise indicated.
Keeping Track of Increases (The Easy Way)
Working both the neckline and raglan increases at the same time, at different rates, can get confusing. This is where stitch markers become a lifesaver! I clip the number of stitch markers I need for a certain set of increases on to the first increase and use one to mark each increase. Once all the markers are used up, then I’m done with that increase set and will refer to the pattern again (but I won’t have to keep checking while I’m knitting the set).
For example, if I need to work 8 neckline increases every 6th row. Then I’ll clip 8 stitch markers into the first increase. Once I’ve used all 8, I’ll gather the pattern and my next batch of stitch markers for the 4th row increases.
You can keep 2 sets of stitch markers clipped for the neckline and raglan increases.
Get the Perfect Fit for Your Free Summer Sweater Knitting Pattern
Add or subtract an inch to the body by adding or subtracting one set of raglan increases on the body only!
Raglan Lines
The raglan lines are 10 sts wide. The pattern has you place a marker in the center, but several tester preferred placing markers on either side of the 10-stitch raglan instead of counting the 5 stitches to the center marker.
Yarn Substitution
The spun alpaca keep this pullover light and flowy. If you’d like to get the same effect with another yarn, try holding two strands of lace weight yarn together.
Row Gauge
If your row gauge is different it will effect the length of your yoke. If you’re getting a higher count for your row gauge, you’ll simply end your increases a little early. If you’re getting a lower count for your row gauge, you may need to increase more quickly (ex. Increase every 2nd row instead of every 4th row) or cast on some stitches under the arm to make up the difference.
Invisible Increases
Want to make your increases truly invisible? Use Make 1 Purlwise (m1p) on purl columns instead of the traditional Make 1 Left or Right. Check out this YouTube video from Purl Soho to see how: Make 1 Purlwise m1p Tutorial | Purl Soho.
When to Knit the Collar in this Free Knit Summer Sweater
The short answer is: You can knit the collar before or after the sleeves. The long answer is that I like to knit my collars before I knit my sleeves. Why? Because the collar provides additional structure to the shoulders, which will effect the length and fit of your sleeves. So that’s why I’ve put the collar first!
Cuffs
If you are using the recommended yarn or a yarn similar to it, I strongly recommend using a sewn BO — like this . The silk and cotton in that core have little-to-no give, so it’s not going to comfortably stretch over your wrist. I originally bound off using a larger needle as I had on all other BOs, but it was waaaay too tight and I had to pull it out. Instead, I used the sewn BO and pulled it after closing each stitch to ensure it remained loose.
Crew Neck Modification
Using smaller needles, CO 82 (92, 100, 106, 116) [122, 134, 144, 146] sts — CO 11 (13, 15, 15, 17) [17, 19, 21, 21] sts, pm, CO 21 (23, 23, 25, 27) [29, 31, 33, 33] sts, pm, CO 19 (21, 25, 27, 29) [31, 35, 37, 39] sts, pm, CO 21 (23, 23, 25, 27) [29, 31, 33, 33] sts, pm, CO 10 (12, 14, 14, 16) [16, 18, 20, 20] sts. Place BOR m and join in the round. Work 1/1 ribbing for 10 rounds (skip Collar later on), switch to the larger needles, and then use these Set Up Rounds:
Round 1: K to last st, M1R, k1 – 83 (93, 101, 107, 117) [123, 135, 145, 147] sts.
Round 2: [K1, p1] to 5 sts before m, * M1R, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, M1L, [p1, k1] to 6 sts before m, p1, rep from * 2 more times, sm, M1R, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, M1L, [p1, k1] to last st, p1 – 91 (101, 109, 115, 125) [131, 143, 153, 155] sts.
You will now begin working the Distorted Rib Pattern (DRP) – Flat beginning with the 1st RS Row—using the k1, p1 repeats as a guide.
Row 7: * DRP to 5 sts before m, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, rep from * 3 more times, DRP to end.
Row 8: * DRP to 5 sts before m, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, rep from * 3 more times, DRP to end.
Skip down to the Raglan Increase section on Page 9—do one additional Raglan Inc Row (every 4th round). Omit the k1 at the beginning and end of each inc row.
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The Pattern (I hope you’ll love it!)
Set up
Using larger needles, CO 69 (75, 79, 85, 91) [97, 105, 111, 113] sts total: CO 4 sts, pm, CO 21 (23, 23, 25, 27) [29, 31, 33, 33] sts, pm, CO 19 (21, 25, 27, 29) [31, 35, 37, 39] sts, pm, CO 21 (23, 23, 25, 27) [29, 31, 33, 33] sts, pm, CO 4 sts,. Do not join in the round.
Row 1 (RS): K1, M1L, p2, k1, * sm, k1, p2, k2, M1L, [p1, k1] to 6 sts before m, p1, M1R, k2, p2, k1, rep from * 2 more times, sm, k1, p2, M1R, k1 – 77 (83, 87, 93, 99) [105, 113, 119, 121] sts.
Rows 2 & 4 (WS): P2, k2, p1, * sm, p1, k2, p2, [p1, k1] to 6 sts before m, p3, k2, p1, rep from * 2 more times, sm, p1, k2, p2.
Row 3: K2, p2, k1, * sm, k1, p2, k2, [k1, p1] to 6 sts before m, k3, p2, k1, rep from * 2 more times, sm, k1, p2, k2.
Row 5: K1, M1L, k1, M1R, p2, k1, sm, *k1, p2, k2, M1L, k to 6 sts before m, k1, M1R, k2, p2, k1, sm, rep from * 2 more times, k1, p2, M1L, k1, M1R, k1 – 87 (93, 97, 103, 109) [115, 123, 129, 131] sts.
Row 6: P1, k1, p2, k2, p1, sm, * p1, k2, p2, [k1b, p1] to 6 sts before m, k1b, p2, k2, p1, sm, rep from * 2 more times, p1, k2, p2, k1, p1.
You will now begin working the Distorted Rib Pattern (DRP) – Flat beginning with the 1st RS Row—using the k1, p1 repeats as a guide.
Row 7: K1, * DRP to 5 sts before m, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, rep from * 3 more times, DRP to last 1 st, k1.
Row 8: P1, * DRP to 5 sts before m, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, rep from * 3 more times, DRP to last 1 st, p1.
Repeat Rows 7 & 8 throughout the raglan, substituting the V-Neck & Raglan Increases for Row 7 where indicated until V-neck is joined in the round.
V-Neck Increases
V-Neck Increases are to be worked on the RS AT THE SAME TIME as the Raglan Increases.
Sizes 1 (2, 3, 4, 5) [6, -, -, -] ONLY:
Work Inc Round every 6th row 7 (8, 8, 8, 6) [4, -, -, -] times.
Sizes – (-, -, 4, 5) [6, 7, 8, 9] ONLY:
Work Inc Row every 4th row – (-, -, 1, 4) [7, 13, 14, 13] times.
All sizes:
Inc Row: K1, M1R, work in patt to last st, M1L, k1 – 2 sts inc’d.
At the end of the last V-Neck Inc Row, CO 1 and join in the round. (If you want to double check your count—you’ll have 4 more sts on the Front than you do on the Back.) Begin working Distorted Rib in the Round. Work in patt until you reach the first marker, this will be your new BOR and the following rounds will be worked like this: * K1, p2, k2, DRP to 5 sts before m, k2, p2, k1, rep from * around.
Remember that Raglan Increases are to be worked on the RS AT THE SAME TIME as the V-Neck Increases.
Work Raglan Inc Row every 4th row 7 (6, 6, 5, 4) [3, 2, 1, 0] times. Then work Raglan Inc Row every RS row 14 (15, 17, 19, 22) [26, 29, 32, 33] times.
Raglan Increase Row: K1, * DRP to 5 sts before m, M1R, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, M1L, rep from * 3 more times, DRP to last st, k1 – 8 sts inc’d.
After completing your Raglan Increases, work the Body Increase Row(/Round) every RS row (/every other round) 2 (5, 5, 7, 8) [8, 8, 9, 12] times.
Body Increase Row: K1, * DRP to 5 sts before m, M1R, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, DRP to 5 sts before m, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, M1L, rep from * one more time, DRP to last st, k1 – 4 sts inc’d.
Body Increase Round: * K1, p2, k2, DRP to 5 sts before m, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, M1L, DRP to 5 sts before m, M1R, k2, p2, k1, rep from * around – 4 sts inc’d.
After completing all increases, you will have a stitch count of 278 (298, 318, 342, 370) [402, 430, 458, 470] sts. Cont to work in patt until Raglan reaches 9 (9.5, 10, 10.5, 11) [11.5, 12, 12.5, 13]”/23 (24, 25.5, 26.5, 28) [29, 30.5, 32, 33] cm from the CO edge.
Armhole Division
Remove all markers as you pass them, leaving only the markers indicated.
Short Sleeves ONLY:
Division Round: Pm, * BO 67 (69, 71, 75, 81) [89, 95, 101, 101] sts, k1, p2, k2, DRP to 5 sts before m, k2, p2, k1, rep from * around.
Long Sleeves ONLY:
Division Round: Pm, place 67 (69, 71, 75, 81) [89, 95, 101, 101] sts on spare cables or st holder, k1, p2, k2, DRP to 5 sts before m, k2, p2, k1, rep from * around.
You will now have 144 (160, 176, 192, 208) [224, 240, 256, 268] sts remaining on the Body.
Body of the Free Summer Knitting Pattern
Round 1: * K1, p2, k2, DRP to 5 sts before m, k2, p2, k1, rep from * around.
Cont to work in patt until Body reaches 7.5”/19 cm from the Armhole Division.
Hem
Switch to smaller needles.
Standard Hem
Round 1: * K1, p2, k1, [k1, p1] to 5 sts before m, k2, p2, k1, rep from* around.
Rep Round 1 for 2”/5 cm. BO all sts in patt.
Split Hem
Hem instructions will be worked twice. You can attach a second ball of yarn at the first m and work the hem at the same time, or place second half of sts (from m to m) on st holders and work the hem separately.
Row 1 (RS): K1, p2, k1, [k1, p1] to 5 sts before m, k2, p2, k1.
Row 2 (WS): Sl1, k2, p1, [p1, k1] to 5 sts before m, p2, k2, sl1.
Rep Rows 1 & 2 for 2”/5 cm. BO all sts in patt.
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Collar
Starting 10 sts before the CO1 in the center (lowest point) of the v-neck and using smaller needles, pick up and knit 132 (146, 150, 162, 168) [174, 176, 188, 190] sts. Pm and join in the round. Hook an interlocking stitch marker into st 11 to mark the the center (lowest point) of the v-neck—this is the “m” used in Rounds 2-10.
Round 1: * K1, p1, rep from * around.
This k1, p1 round establishes a pattern of 1/1 ribbing. The phrase “Work ribbing” below, refers to this pattern.
Rounds 2-10: Work ribbing to 1 st before m, CDD, work ribbing around.
BO in patt using sewn BO for complete control over the tension (tighter for a smaller v-neck or looser for a more open V) or preferred stretchy BO method.
Place the 67 (69, 71, 75, 81) [89, 95, 101, 101] sleeve sts back on the larger needles. Pm and join yarn, leaving 12”/30 cm to sew any hole left at join closed.
Sleeve Round: K1, p2, k2, DRP to 5 sts before m, k2, p2, k1.
Work Sleeve Round 2 more times.
Dec Round: K1, p2, k1, ssk, DRP to 6 sts before m, k2tog, k2, p2, k1 – 65 (67, 69, 73, 79) [87, 93, 99, 99] sts.
Rep Dec Round every 8 (9, 8, 8, 7) [6, 6, 6, 6] th round 9 (9, 10, 10, 11) [13, 13, 14, 14] more times — 47 (49, 49, 53, 57) [61, 67, 71, 71] sts. Work Sleeve Round until Sleeve measures 14 (14.5, 14.5, 15, 15) [15.5, 15.5, 16, 16]”/35.5 (37, 37, 38, 38) [39, 39, 40.5, 40.5) cm or 3″/7.5 cm less than desired sleeve length.
If your first DRP st is a purl:
Puff Dec Round 1: K1, p2, k1, sssk, * DRP 5 sts, k3tog, rep from * 2 (2, 2, 2, 3) [3, 4, 5, 4] more times, DRP to 7 sts before m, k3tog, k2, p2, k1 – 37 (39, 39, 43, 45) [49, 53, 55, 57] sts.
If your first DRP st is a knit:
Puff Dec Round 1: K1, p2, k2, k3tog, * DRP 5 sts, k3tog, rep from * 2 (2, 2, 2, 3) [3, 4, 5, 4] more times, DRP to 8 sts before m, k3tog, k2, p2, k1 – 37 (39, 39, 43, 45) [49, 53, 55, 57] sts.
Rep Sleeve Round for 2 more rounds.
Puff Dec Round 2: K1, p2, k1, ssk, * p1 (3, 3, 4, 2) [1, 1, 1, 2], p2tog, rep from * 6 (4, 4, 4, 6) [10, 10, 12, 10] more times, k to 6 sts before m, k2tog, k2, p2, k1 – 28 (32, 32, 36, 36) [36, 40, 40, 44] sts.
Cuff
Switch to smaller needles.
Round 1: K1, *p2, k2, rep from * to last 3 sts, p2, k1.
Rep Round 1 for 2.5”/6.5 cm. BO all sts in patt using a sewn BO or preferred stretchy BO.
Finishing
Weave in ends. Block to measurements and enjoy!
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In the meantime, join in the conversation at Nurtured Knitters, our Facebook group! Ask questions, share photos, and join a community made to lift you up!
Tips for the Best Results
To get the most out of your Zephyros sweater, here are a few simple tips:
Choose the right yarn: Look for a sport weight yarn with good drape. Fibers like cotton blends, linen blends, or lightweight wool work beautifully.
Swatch thoughtfully: The distorted rib has natural elasticity, so taking time to check your gauge will ensure the best fit.
Block your sweater: Blocking helps open up the texture and even out the stitches, bringing the fabric to life.
These small steps can make a big difference in how your finished sweater looks and feels.
A Free Summer Sweater Knitting Pattern You’ll Return To
There’s a reason so many knitters look for a reliable free summer sweater knitting pattern—it’s the kind of project you want to make more than once.
Zephyros is designed with that in mind. With its combination of comfort, texture, and versatility, it’s easy to imagine knitting it again in a different color, sleeve length, or yarn.
It’s not just a one-time project—it’s a pattern that can grow with your style and your skills.
Ready to Cast On?
If you’re ready to create a sweater that feels as good as it looks, Zephyros is waiting for you.
This free summer sweater knitting pattern is all about ease, texture, and thoughtful design—giving you a finished piece that’s lightweight, wearable, and uniquely yours.
Whether you choose the relaxed knit tee or the softly structured long sleeve version, you’ll end up with a garment that captures the feeling of summer in every stitch.
So grab your needles, pick your yarn, and cast on. Your new favorite sweater is just a few rows away.
