Free Shawlette Knitting Pattern: Against the Grain Shawlette Returns—Reimagined and Better Than Ever

Wander through the woods. Birds chirrup and sing. A pair of squirrels chase each other through the leaves. You sit on a fallen tree and raise your face to the sun. Your fingers trace the knots running up the trunk, focusing on the sensations of smooth and rough beneath your fingertips. You breathe deep—and feel your stress begin to slip away. A quiet peace surrounds you, soft and strong.

That’s exactly the feeling I wanted to capture with this new and completely reimagined version of the Against the Grain Shawlette. This free shawlette knitting pattern isn’t just a project—it’s a path back to presence. One stitch at a time.

When I first designed this shawlette, I loved its elegant asymmetry and playful mix of structure and flow. But as I grew as a designer—and a knitter—I started imagining what this piece could become if I gave it room to grow too. The result is a deeper, richer, more relaxing knit, with soft ripples and a bold, twisting cable that captures the eye without asking too much of your hands. It’s everything I loved about the original—only now, it’s better.

And today, I’m so excited to offer this updated version as a free shawlette knitting pattern—available to read right here on my blog. No download needed. Just scroll, cast on, and enjoy.

The Knitting Experience: Simple Stitches, Beautiful Results

Against the Grain Shawlette is a long, skinny shawl worked in DK weight yarn with a wingspan of 76 inches and a depth of 17 inches—perfect for wrapping, draping, tying, or even looping like a scarf. The construction is simple, but the effect is striking: a softly rippling body balanced by a sculptural cable that winds its way up one edge like the knotty trunk of a forest tree.

This design is the sweet spot of what I love in a knit: satisfying, intuitive, and gorgeous when it’s done. The cable is easy to memorize, and both charted and written instructions are included. I found myself slipping into a rhythm with it quickly—one of those projects where the rows fly by while your brain takes a much-needed exhale.

You’ll start with just a few stitches and watch the shawlette grow, rippling out in waves. The combination of 2/2 ribbing, gentle increases, and that eye-catching cable makes for a meditative and engaging experience. Whether you’re cuddled on the couch with a cup of tea or stealing a few rows in the carpool line, this free shawlette knitting pattern is designed to bring you peace.

Featuring M1 Yarns: Earthy Depths and Bold Color

For the relaunch of this pattern, I had the pleasure of knitting with yarn from M1 Yarns, a Michigan-based dyer whose colorways I’ve admired for years. I’ve met the dyer several times, and every time I walk away inspired by her love of color. Her palettes always feel intentional and full of life, from misty neutrals to radiant jewel tones.

For my sample, I used Easy Rider DK in the colorway Green Olives. It’s the kind of green that feels alive—earthy and grounded but with a surprising brightness that catches the light just right. I love how it brings out the texture in the cables without overshadowing the design.

What makes M1 Yarns extra special, in my opinion, is her ability to balance moody, complex tones with vivid pops of color. If you’re drawn to rustic forest vibes, stormy skies, or the saturated reds and purples of wild berries, you’ll find something to fall in love with. And if your stash is missing some drama, she’s got that too.

The base itself—Easy Rider DK—is springy with excellent stitch definition. It gives the cables clarity and bounce, and the final fabric feels luxurious but hard-wearing. I highly recommend checking out her shop if you’re looking for something local, hand-dyed, and totally swoon-worthy.

This free shawlette knitting pattern is a beautiful canvas for any of M1’s DK bases, and I can’t wait to see what colors you all choose.

Cables Without a Cable Needle: Right & Left Crosses

One of the best parts of the Against the Grain Shawlette is how approachable the cables are. They look bold and architectural, but they’re surprisingly easy to work—and even easier if you ditch the cable needle entirely.

Let’s break down the two common cable maneuvers in this shawlette:

2/2 Right Cross (2/2 RC)

1. Skip the first two stitches on your left needle and insert your right needle into the back of the next two stitches (stitches 3 and 4).
2. Slip all four stitches off the left needle carefully.
3. Catch the first two stitches (now in front) with your left needle.
4. Return the two back stitches to the left needle.
5. Knit all four stitches in their new order.

This gives you a right-leaning cable without any extra tools. The movement feels a little fiddly the first time but quickly becomes second nature.

2/2 Left Cross (2/2 LC)

1. Skip the first two stitches on your left needle and insert your right needle into the front of the next two stitches (stitches 3 and 4).
2. Slip all four stitches off the left needle carefully.
3. Catch the first two stitches (now in back) with your left needle.
4. Return the front two stitches to the left needle.
5. Knit all four stitches in their new order.

This mirrors the Right Cross and leans to the left. Once you get the hang of both, you can flow through the cable sections of the shawlette with ease—and without pausing to hunt for your cable needle.

These techniques are especially satisfying in DK weight yarn, where the stitches are large enough to manipulate but not so big that they stretch out of shape. And with the crisp definition from M1 Yarns, your cables will really stand out.

Why You’ll Love This Free Shawlette Knitting Pattern

There’s so much to love about this pattern, whether it’s your first shawl or your fiftieth:

• It’s deeply meditative. You’ll find yourself falling into a rhythm—ripples, ribs, cables, repeat.
• It’s low-stress but high-impact. The finished shawlette looks impressive but doesn’t require complex shaping or advanced skills.
• It’s easy to wear. Long enough to wrap, slim enough to drape, and cozy enough for every season.
• It’s super stash-friendly. Just two skeins of DK yarn make this a great use of special hand-dyed yarn.

And did I mention? It’s a free shawlette knitting pattern, available right here on my blog. No downloads, logins, or passwords. Just knitting, as it should be—calm, connected, and creatively free.

A Soft and Strong Return

Releasing the Against the Grain Shawlette in this new form has felt like revisiting an old friend—and realizing just how much both of us have grown. This new version holds everything I loved about the original, but now reimagined to better balance this lovely long and skinny shawl for maximum wearability.

I hope it brings you the same peace it brought me. I hope it carries you through stressful days and quiet moments. And I hope you wear it with pride, knowing that beauty and strength can grow from simple stitches.

This free shawlette knitting pattern is more than just a project—it’s a walk in the woods, a breath of fresh air, and a reminder to trace the textures of life as they come: smooth and rough, strong and soft.

Want the PDF Pattern?

Everything is getting more expensive, and that’s stressful. So I’ve started offering more and more of my patterns on the blog. I can do this because I spent a lot of time and energy getting set up for ads.

Ads help me pay for the website, email list, yarn, ect. Without a little money (and we’re talking about $100/month–which is what I earn most months), I can’t keep publishing.

And considering I have a 70-point checklist for every pattern that comes out, many of which take many hours to complete. I make pennies an hour… literally.

That’s a long way to say, I can’t offer all the PDF’s for free. If I did. I couldn’t keep making new patterns… which I really want to do because I love it.

But I can offer the PDF at a discount, which I do.

If you’d like to spend a couple bucks to support new/free pattern creation and come away with an awesome PDF, you can click the buttons below!

Ready to Cast On? Here’s What You Need to Know

Size of Free Shawlette Knitting Pattern

Wingspan: 76”/193 cm
Depth: 17”/43 cm

Yarn

DK weight, approx. 550 yds (2 skeins)
Recommended: M1 Yarns Easy Rider DK in Green Olives

Needles

US 8 / 5 mm circular needles (24” or longer) or size to obtain gauge

Gauge

19 sts & 26 rows = 4” / 10 cm in stockinette

Notions

Stitch marker
Tapestry needle
Cable needle (optional!)

Skills Used

• Increases
• 2/2 Ribbing
• Simple cables (charted and written)
• Optional: cabling without a needle

You can find the full free shawlette knitting pattern right here on the blog—just scroll down to the instructions and cast on whenever inspiration strikes.

Glossary for Free Shawlette Knitting Pattern

1/2 RPC – A right-purl-cross cable worked over 3 sts – Slip 1 st onto a cable needle and hold to the back. Knit the next two sts on the lefthand needle and then purl the st on the cable needle.

2/1 LPC – A left-purl-cross cable worked over 3 sts – Slip 2 sts onto a cable needle and hold to the front. Purl the next st on the lefthand needle and then knit the 2 sts on the cable needle.

2/1 RPC – A right-purl-cross cable worked over 3 sts – Slip 2 sts onto a cable needle and hold to the back. Knit the next st on the lefthand needle and then purl the two sts on the cable needle.

2/2 LPC – A left-purl-cross cable worked over 4 sts – Slip 2 sts onto a cable needle and hold to the front. Purl the next two sts on the lefthand needle and then knit the 2 sts on the cable needle.

2/2 RC – A right-cross cable worked over 4 sts – Slip 2 sts onto a cable needle and hold to the back. Knit the next two sts on the lefthand needle and then knit the 2 sts on the cable needle. 

2/2 RPC – A right-purl-cross cable worked over 4 sts – Slip 2 sts onto a cable needle and hold to the back. Knit the next two sts on the lefthand needle and then purl the 2 sts on the cable needle.

BO – bind off 

BYO – backwards yarn over – pull yarn in front, wrap from bottom to top 

CO – cast on

cont in est patt – continue in established pattern

foll – follow 

k – knit 

KYOK – k1, yo, k1 in the same stitch

KYOP – k1, yo, p1 in the same stitch

m – marker 

p – purl 

PYOK – p1, yo, k1 in the same stitch

pm – place marker 

RS – right side or the side that will be seen when wearing

sl – slip of stitches purlwise with yarn in back unless otherwise indicated

st(s) – stitch(es) 

WS – wrong side or the side that will not be seen when wearing

Notes for the Knit Shawlette

Knit “to m” always refers to the first marker you encounter after following instructions to that point. If a marker is not mentioned, slip it. 

Written instructions for all charts are at the end of the pattern.

The Free Pattern for the Against the Grain Shawlette

Quick Note

Please do not copy and paste this pattern into a document elsewhere. It is stealing. The ads on this site help me to pay for the materials needed to create the pattern. If you want to access it offline, without the ads, please click the buttons above to purchase a PDF. It’s just a few bucks!

Section 1

CO 1. 

Row 1: KYOK – 3 sts. 

Row 2: Sl1, p1, sl1. 

Row 3: K3. 

Row 4: Sl1, p1, sl1.

Row 5: K1, BYO, k2 – 4 sts. 

Row 6: Sl1, p2, sl1.

Row 7: K4. 

Row 8: Sl1, p2, sl1.

Row 9: K1, BYO, k3 – 5 sts.

Row 10: Sl1, p2, k1, sl1.

Row 11: K1, p1, k3. 

Row 12: Sl1, p2, k1, sl1.

Row 13: K1, BYO, p1, k3 – 6 sts.

Row 14: Sl1, p2, k2, sl1.

Row 15: K1, p2, k3. 

Row 16: Sl1, p2, k2, sl1.

Row 17: K1, BYO, p2, k3 – 7 sts.

Row 18: Sl1, p2, k2, p1, sl1.

Row 19: K2, p2, k3.

Row 20: Sl1, p2, k2, p1, sl1.

So as not to weary you with endless instructions when you get the gist—we are creating a 2/2 ribbing with 2 selvedge stitches. From now on you’ll “cont. in patt,” knitting the knits and purling the purls, adding a stitch every 4 rows. 

Row 21: K1, BYO, cont to in patt to last st, k1 – 8 sts. 

Row 22: Sl1, cont in patt to last st, sl1. 

Row 23: K1, cont in patt to last st, k1. 

Row 24: Sl1, cont in patt to last st, sl1.

Repeat Rows 21-24 five more times – 14 sts. 

Section 2

Now you will begin knitting the from Chart 1 AT THE SAME TIME as you are working the 3 sets of k2/p2 ribbing on the edge. Pm between the first and second sts. 

RS Row: K1, Foll chart to m, [p2, k2] 3 times, k1. 

WS Row: Sl1, [p2, k2] 3 times, foll chart to last st, sl1. 

Section 3

Now begin forming the ribbing on the other side of the cables while working Chart 2 AT THE SAME TIME. Pm between the first and second sts. 

Instructions in ( ) are to be use ONLY IN REPEATS, not the first time. 

Row 1 (RS): K1, BYO, (cont in patt to m,) foll chart to m, [p2, k2] 3 times, k1 – 45 sts.

Row 2 (WS): Sl1, [p2, k2] 3 times, foll chart to m, (cont in patt to last 2 sts,) k1, sl1.

Row 3: K1, p1, (cont in patt to m,) foll chart to m, [p2, k2] 3 times, k1.

Row 4: Sl1, [p2, k2] 3 times, foll chart to m, (cont in patt to last 2 sts,) k1, sl1.

Row 5: K1, BYO, p1, (cont in patt to m,) foll chart to m, [p2, k2] 3 times, k1 – 46 sts.

Row 6: Sl1, [p2, k2] 3 times, foll chart to m, (cont in patt to last 3 sts,) k2, sl1.

Row 7: K1, p2, (cont in patt to m,) foll chart to m, [p2, k2] 3 times, k1.

Row 8: Sl1, [p2, k2] 3 times, foll chart to m, (cont in patt to last 3 sts,) k2, sl1.

Row 9: K1, BYO, p2, (cont in patt to m,) foll chart to m, [p2, k2] 3 times, k1 – 47 sts.

Row 10: Sl1, [p2, k2] 3 times, foll chart to m, (cont in patt to last 4 sts,) k2, p1, sl1.

Row 11: K2, p2, (cont in patt to m,) foll chart to m, [p2, k2] 3 times, k1.

Row 12: Sl1, [p2, k2] 3 times, foll chart to m, (cont in patt to last 4 sts,) k2, p1, sl1.

Row 13: K1, BYO, k1, p2, (cont in patt to m,) foll chart to m, [p2, k2] 3 times, k1 – 48 sts.

Row 14: Sl1, [p2, k2] 3 times, foll chart to m, (cont in patt to last 5 sts,) k2, p2, sl1.

Row 15: K3, p2, (cont in patt to m,) foll chart to m, [p2, k2] 3 times, k1.

Row 16: Sl1, [p2, k2] 3 times, foll chart to m, (cont in patt to last 5 sts,) k2, p2, sl1.Repeat Rows 1-16 seven more times – 76 sts. 

Section 4

Row 1 (RS): K1, BYO, cont in patt to m, foll chart to m, [p2, k2] 3 times, k1 – 77 sts.

Row 2 (WS): Sl1, [p2, k2] 3 times, foll chart to m, cont in patt to last 2 sts, k1, sl1.

Row 3: K1, BYO, p1, cont in patt to m, foll chart to m, [p2, k2] 3 times, k1 – 78 sts.

Row 4: Sl1, [p2, k2] 3 times, foll chart to m, cont in patt to last 3 sts, k2, sl1.

Row 5: K1, BYO, p2, cont in patt to m, foll chart to m, [p2, k2] 3 times, k1 – 79 sts.

Row 6: Sl1, [p2, k2] 3 times, foll chart to m, cont in patt to last 4 sts, k2, p1, sl1.

Row 7: K1, BYO, k1, p2, cont in patt to m, foll chart to m, [p2, k2] 3 times, k1 – 80 sts.

Row 8: Sl1, [p2, k2] 3 times, foll chart to m, cont in patt to last 5 sts, k2, p2, sl1.

Repeat Rows 1-8 seven more times (4 repeats of the chart total) – 108 sts. 

Section 5

Row 1 (RS): K1, PYOK, cont in patt to m, foll chart to m, [p2, k2] 3 times, k1 – 110 sts.

Row 2 (WS): Sl1, [p2, k2] 3 times, foll chart to m, [k2, p2] to last 3 sts, k2, sl1.

Row 3: K1, KYOP, cont in patt to m, foll chart to m, [p2, k2] 3 times, k1 – 112 sts.

Row 4: Sl1, [p2, k2] 3 times, foll chart to m, cont in patt to last 3 sts, k2, p1, [k2, p2] to last st, sl1.

Repeat Rows 1-4 six more times (end after completing Row 12 of the chart) – 136 sts.

Section 6

Repeat Rows 1-4 of Section 5 two more times – 144 sts. Use Chart 3 for the first repeat, repeat Rows 3 & 4 two more times to complete the second repeat. BO loosely in patt. 

If you share photos of your Nurture Knitwear projects, please be sure to tag me @nurtureknitwear and use the hashtags #nurtureknitwear and #againstthegrainshawl.

Written Chart Instructions for the Free Shawlette Knitting Pattern

Chart 1 – Section 1

Row 1 (RS): BYO.

Rows 2 and 4 (WS): K1.

Row 3: P1.

Row 5: BYO, p1.

Rows 6 and 8: K2.

Row 7: P2.

Row 9: BYO, p2.

Rows 10 and 12: K3.

Row 11: P3.

Row 13: BYO, p3.

Rows 14 and 16: K3, p1.

Row 15: K1, p3.

Row 17: BYO, k1, p3.

Rows 18 and 20: K3, p2.

Row 19: K2, p3.

Row 21: BYO, k2, p3.

Rows 22, 23 and 24: K3, p3.

Row 25: BYO, k3, p3.

Rows 26 and 28: K3, p4.

Row 27: 2/2 RC, p3.

Row 29: BYO, k2, 2/2 LPC, p1.

Row 30: K1, p2, k2, p3.

Row 31: 2/1 RPC, p2, 2/1 LPC.

Row 32: P2, k5, p1.

Row 33: BYO, k1, p5, k2.

Row 34: P2, k5, p2.

Row 35: K2, p4, 1/2 RPC.

Row 36: K1, p2, k4, p2.

Row 37: BYO, 2/2 LPC, 2/2 RPC, p1.

Row 38: K3, p4, k3.

Row 39: P3, 2/2 RC, p3.

Row 40: K3, p4, k3.

Chart 1 – Sections 1 and 2

Row 1 (RS): BYO, p3, k4, p3.

Rows 2 and 4 (WS): K3, p4, k4.

Row 3: P4, 2/2 RC, p3.

Row 5: BYO, p2, 2/2 RPC, 2/2 LPC, p1.

Row 6: P3, k4, p2, k3.

Row 7: P2, 1/2 RPC, p4, 2/1 LPC.

Row 8: P2, k6, p2, k2. 

Row 9: BYO, p2, k2, p6, k2.

Row 10: P2, k6, p2, k3. 

Row 11: P3, 2/1 LPC, p4, 1/2 RPC.

Row 12: K1, (p2, k4) two times.

Row 13: BYO, p4, 2/2 LPC, 2/2 RPC, p1.

Rows 14 and 16: K3, p4, k6, p1.

Row 15: K1, p6, 2/2 RC, p3.

Row 17: BYO, k1, p6, k4, p3.

Rows 18 and 20: K3, p4, k6, p2.

Row 19: K2, p6, 2/2 RC, p3.

Row 21: BYO, k2, p4, 2/2 RPC, 2/2 LPC, p1.

Row 22: P3, k4, p2, k4, p3. 

Row 23: K3, p3, 1/2 RPC, p4, 2/1 LPC.

Row 24: P2, k6, p2, k3, p3.

Row 25: BYO, k3, p3, k2, p6, k2.

Row 26: P2, k6, p2, k3, p4. 

Row 27: 2/2 RC, p3, 2/1 LPC, p4, 1/2 RPC.

Row 28: K1, p2, k4, p2, k4, p4.

Row 29: BYO, k2, 2/2 LPC, p2, 2/2 LPC, 2/2 RPC, p1.

Row 30: K3, p4, k4, p2, k2, p3.

Row 31: 2/1 RPC, p2, 2/1 LPC, p3, 2/2 RC, p3.

Row 32: K3, p4, k3, p2, k5, p1.

Row 33: BYO, k1, p5, k2, p3, k4, p3.

Row 34: K3, p4, k3, p2, k5, p2.

Row 35: K2, p4, 1/2 RPC, p3, 2/2 RC, p3. 

Row 36: K3, p4, (k4, p2) two times.

Row 37: BYO, 2/2 LPC, 2/2 RPC, p2, 2/2 RPC, 2/2 LPC, p1.

Row 38: P3, k4, p2, k4, p4, k3.

Row 39: P3, 2/2 RC, p3, 1/2 RPC, p4, 2/1 LPC.

Row 40: P2, k6, p2, k3, p4, k3. 

Chart 1 – Sections 1, 2, and 3

Row 1 (RS): BYO, p3, k4, p3, k2, p6, k2.

Row 2 (WS): P2, k6, p2, k3, p4, k4.

Row 3: P4, 2/2 RC, p3, 2/1 LPC, p4, 1/2 RPC.

Row 4: K1, p2, k4, p2, k4, p4, k4.

Row 5: BYO, p2, 2/2 RPC, 2/2 LPC, p2, 2/2 LPC, 2/2 RPC, p1. 

Row 6: K3, p4, k3, p3, k4, p2, k3.

Row 7: P2, 1/2 RPC, p4, 2/1 LPC, p3, 2/2 RC, p3.

Row 8: K3, p4, k3, p2, k6, p2, k2. 

Row 9: BYO, p2, k2, p6, k2, p3, k4, p3. 

Row 10: K3, p4, k3, p2, k6, p2, k3. 

Row 11: P3, 2/1 LPC, p4, 1/2 RPC, p3, 2/2 RC, p3. 

Row 12: K3, p4, k4, (p2, k4) two times.

Row 13: BYO, p4, 2/2 LPC, 2/2 RPC, p2, 2/2 RPC, 2/2 LPC, p1. 

Row 14: K1, p2, k4, p2, k4, p4, k6, p1.

Row 15: K1, p6, 2/2 RC, p3, 1/2 RPC, p4, 2/1 LPC.

Row 16: P2, k6, p2, k3, p4, k6, p1.

Row 17: BYO, k1, p6, k4, p3, k2, p6, k2.

Row 18: P2, k6, p2, k3, p4, k6, p2.

Row 19: K2, p6, 2/2 RC, p3, 2/1 LPC, p4, 1/2 RPC.

Row 20: K1, (p2, k4) two times, p4, k6, p2.

Row 21: BYO, k2, p4, 2/2 RPC, 2/2 LPC, p2, 2/2 LPC, 2/2 RPC, p1.

Row 22: K3, p4, k3, p3, k4, p2, k4, p3. 

Row 23: K3, p3, 1/2 RPC, p4, 2/1 LPC, p3, 2/2 RC, p3. 

Row 24: K3, p4, k3, p2, k6, p2, k3, p3.

Row 25: BYO, k3, p3, k2, p6, k2, p3, k4, p3. 

Row 26: K3, p4, k3, p2, k6, p2, k3, p4. 

Row 27: 2/2 RC, p3, 2/1 LPC, p4, 1/2 RPC, p3, 2/2 RC, p3.

Row 28: K3, p4, (k4, p2) two times, k4, p4.

Row 29: BYO, k2, 2/2 LPC, p2, 2/2 LPC, 2/2 RPC, p2, 2/2 RPC, 2/2 LPC, p1. 

Row 30: K1, (p2, k4) two times, p4, k4, p2, k2, p3.

Row 31: 2/1 RPC, p2, 2/1 LPC, p3, 2/2 RC, p3, 1/2 RPC, p4, 2/1 LPC.

Row 32: P2, k6, p2, k3, p4, k3, p2, k5, p1.

Row 33: BYO, k1, p5, k2, p3, k4, p3, k2, p6, k2.

Row 34: P2, k6, p2, k3, p4, k3, p2, k5, p2.

Row 35: K2, p4, 1/2 RPC, p3, 2/2 RC, p3, 2/1 LPC, p4, 1/2 RPC.

Row 36: K1, (p2, k4) two times, p4, (k4, p2) two times.

Row 37: BYO, 2/2 LPC, 2/2 RPC, p2, 2/2 RPC, 2/2 LPC, p2, 2/2 LPC, 2/2 RPC, p1. 

Row 38: K3, p4, k3, p3, k4, p2, k4, p4, k3.

Row 39: P3, 2/2 RC, p3, 1/2 RPC, p4, 2/1 LPC, p3, 2/2 RC, p3. 

Row 40: K3, p4, k3, p2, k6, p2, k3, p4, k3. 

Chart 2

Row 1 (RS): P3, k4, p3, k2, p6, k2, p3, k4, p3.

Row 2 (WS): K3, p4, k3, p2, k6, p2, k3, p4, k3. 

Row 3: P3, 2/2 RC, p3, 2/1 LPC, p4, 1/2 RPC, p3, 2/2 RC, p3. 

Row 4: K3, p4, (k4, p2) two times, k4, p4, k3. 

Row 5: P1, 2/2 RPC, 2/2 LPC, p2, 2/2 LPC, 2/2 RPC, p2, 2/2 RPC, 2/2 LPC, p1.

Rows 6 and 12: K1, (p2, k4) two times, p4, (k4, p2) two times, k1.

Row 7: 1/2 RPC, p4, 2/1 LPC, p3, 2/2 RC, p3, 1/2 RPC, p4, 2/1 LPC.

Rows 8 and 10: P2, k6, p2, k3, p4, k3, p2, k6, p2. 

Row 9: K2, p6, k2, p3, k4, p3, k2, p6, k2. 

Row 11: 2/1 LPC, p4, 1/2 RPC, p3, 2/2 RC, p3, 2/1 LPC, p4, 1/2 RPC. 

Row 13: P1, 2/2 LPC, 2/2 RPC, p2, 2/2 RPC, 2/2 LPC, p2, 2/2 LPC, 2/2 RPC, p1. 

Row 14: K3, p4, k3, p3, k4, p2, k4, p4, k3. 

Row 15: P3, 2/2 RC, p3, 1/2 RPC, p4, 2/1 LPC, p3, 2/2 RC, p3. 

Row 16: K3, p4, k3, p2, k6, p2, k3, p4, k3.

Repeat Rows 1 – 16 as directed.  

Chart 3

Row 1 (RS): P1, 2/1 LPC, p2, 1/2 RPC, p2, 2/2 RPC, 2/2 LPC, p2, 2/1 LPC, p2, 1/2 RPC, p1.

Row 2 (WS): (K2, p2) two times, k3, p2, k4, p2, k3, (p2, k2) two times. 

Row 3: (P2, k2) two times, p3, k2, p4, k2, p3, (k2, p2) two times. 

Row 4: (K2, p2) two times, k3, p2, k4, p2, k3, (p2, k2) two times.

Repeat Rows 3 – 4 two times.

Share Your Knits!

If you knit the Against the Grain Shawlette, I’d love to see it! Tag me on social media, share it in your favorite Ravelry group, or send me an email. Watching this pattern take shape in your hands and your yarn choices is the best part of the process.

And if you enjoyed this free shawlette knitting pattern, take a peek around the blog—there’s more where that came from, including other one-skein projects, beginner-friendly lace, and cozy cowls for every season.

Happy knitting, and may every cable twist carry you toward calm.